Oiseaux et Mammifères - du Maroc au Cap Nord

Of Gyrfalcons and Whales

6th journey from S Sweden to the Barents Sea - July 2006
Report on a birding trip

Illustrations on http://lutzluecker.spaces.live.com 

Lutz Lücker 5, Fort-L'Ecluse – CH-1213 Pt.-Lancy/Geneva / Switzerland

Introduction (same as in 2002-2004):

Travel :

By car from Geneva. Petrol less expensive in Finland, most expensive in Norway.
Crossed Baltic Sea at Fehmarn (Puttgarden/Rödby) and Helsingör. Way back via Gedser/Rostock.
Beware! In late July, waiting queues in Rödby can be long; better use the bridge near Odense.
There are lots of automated petrol stations in Fennoscandia but they do not all accept foreign credit cards. Better have a few small banknotes ready…!

Maps :
Used mainly the Norwegian Cappelens 1 :400.000 Troms og Finnmark map (main reference for this report). For local use the 1 :250.000 Statens vegvesen VERGKAART, blad 21 (Varanger) is very good. There are better maps for hikers (1 :50.000), but very small and expensive. An excellent bargain is the Statoil Scandinavia atlas NORDEN for 200 skr: the whole of Scandinavia on a 1:300.000 scale! But it does have some imperfections: a yellow road may turn out to have thousands of potholes, a red one may not be tarmaced.

Daily route, weather and highlights
Weather in the High Arctic was cool (cold), wet and quite windy this year. And it had been so since late May! Worst summer since the beginning of meteorological records! There was virtually no snow left on high tundra; all had been washed away by the rain. But breeding/hatching was rather early than late.
Still no Lemmings on the tundra but quite a few other rodents by the sea; so Rough-legged Buzzards (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) and Short-eared Owls (Hibou des marais) (Sumpfohreule) were not scarce there. But in Norrbotten, rodents were rare: very few owls!
Mosquitoes scarce this year, only on the very few calm, warm days on wet tundra. Lots of species were quite rare or seemed absent like Steller's Eider (Eider de Steller) (Scheckente), breeding Bar-tailed Godwit (Barge rousse) (Pfuhlschnepfe) , Ruff (Combattant varié) (Kampfläufer), Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer), Pied Flycatcher (Gobemouche noir) (Trauerschnäpper), Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) (Berghänfling) etc.
I had no special target species since I had already seen anything one could expect on previous journeys and had no illusions about difficult small birds like Terek Sandpiper (Chevalier bargette) (Terekwasserläufer), Little Bunting (Bruant nain) (Zwergammer), Greenish Warbler (Pouillot verdâtre) (Grünlaubsänger) or Great Snipe (Bécassine double) (Doppelschnepfe). So I decided to consider anything new as a bonus.

31st June:
Arrival at Store Mosse National Park. 15 Whooper Swans (Cygne chanteur) (Singschwan),

8 Cranes (Grue cendrée) (Kranich) (no juv.), 5 (!) Ospreys (Balbuzard pêcheur) (Fischadler) on/over Kävsjö! - Sun, a few clouds, mild. Dead badger (Meles m.) on the road near Gävle.

1st July:
6 km S Sörbrännigen a pair of Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher).
In Hudiksvall, 22 Lesser white-fronted Geese (Oie naine) (Zwerggans) at the traditional moulting site by the lake. Only one ringed, but 10 were in the water… The only place in the world where you can get this close to wild Lesser Whitefronts! The same birds have a 600 yd. flight distance on their Lapland breeding sites.

Stopover at a large lake (Manjaurträsk) NE Amsele (road 363), where a drake Surf Scoter (Macreuse à front blanc) (Brillenente) had been seen a week before in a flock of Common Scoter (Macreuse noire) (Trauerente). Not ONE duck on the lake, but a few minutes later, ONE black bird came along, flying and that was the one! It came down on the water and I could watch it for 20 min. before it disappeared. What does an American bird do in the middle of Sweden in July?
Two more pairs of Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher), the first Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz),

first Reindeer and Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) (Bruchwasserläufer) on the road to Norsjö. I had well arrived in Lapland! 2 Woodcocks (Bécasse des bois) (Waldschnepfe) SW Glommersträsk, a Curlew (Courlis cendré) (Großer Brachvogel) NE, with Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) (Fischadler) and first Redwing (Grive mauvis) (Rotdrossel). (Sunny and warm)

2nd July:
First and only Three-toed Woodpecker (Pic tridactyle) (Dreizehenspecht) SE Arvidsjaur. 53 km before Älvisbyn, a Crane (Grue cendrée) (Kranich) family, 1 Whooper swan (Cygne chanteur) (Singschwan), first Brambling (Pinson du Nord) (Bergfink) and an Adder (Vipera berus). 1 Red-necked Grebe (Grèbe jougris) (Rothalstaucher) near Viskträsk.- I spend the rest of the day with my Swedish friends in Boden and leave in the evening with some information on a family of Great Grey Owls (Chouette lapone) (Bartkauz) about 40 km north. After a fruitless hour of searching the Northern Taiga I finally hear the female begging for food. She is perched on a Birch tree, the chick in the dense forest behind, and I shortly hear the male calling. I do not want to disturb the scene and stay within a distance of 40 yards, the bird not even looking at me, sometimes snoozing. As it is very late, I get back to the car after an hour. (Sunny and warm)

3rd July:
Long road to the Arctic circle where the weather deteriorates. First Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) (Birkenzeisig) near Kersilö, Moskuvaara/Viankiaapaa junction after the dam, 80 m before the right turn to Viankiaavan reserve, but no Little Bunting (Bruant nain) (Zwergammer) like in 2004. Too windy. 1 Curlew (Courlis cendré) (Großer Brachvogel) and 1 Whimbrel (Courlis corlieu) (Regenbrachvogel) on the Petkula bog near the road by the Vajukoski junction, first Golden plover (Pluvier doré) (Goldregenpfeifer) on Kaunispää hill S Ivalo, but no grouse and no Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer). Too many dogs! Night in the rain near Nuorgam after 4000 km drive.

4th July :
First Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) (Blaukehlchen) near Polmak, Merlin (Faucon émerillon) near Harrelv, first Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) at Kongsvoll pass, first Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) near Batsfjord, first Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) at km 25, just outside town. Night in Havli Hotel in pouring rain. It's 400 nkr for a simple room (no shower/WC), however there is a TV …, but Germany lost the match!

5th July :
Meet my German friends who are studying Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in the Gednje area. They have found several nests which are about to hatch, two of them less than 150 m apart. Their Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) clutch has hatched and disappeared.- 2 Bean Geese (Oie des moissons) (Saatgans) fly by, as well as a group of 8 non-breeding Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe). Bad sign: no Lemmings! 2 Shore larks (Alouette haussecol) (Ohrenlerche) by the road. (Cool, windy, showers, sunny spells)

6th July:
After a long search I finally find ONE lone Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in my study area. He is quite nervous but does not try to run away, so I go twenty yards backwards, and sure enough, he gets back to his clutch of 3 eggs within minutes, just a few yards from where I had found a nest in 2004. I leave him alone because he seems to be a shy bird. They are NOT all as confiding as people believe.

A pair of Arctic skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) with chicks near the car park, 4 "Redpoll" (Sizerin flammé) (Birkenzeisig) on the high tundra, one of which is a splendid white adult male Arctic Redpoll (Sizerin blanchâtre) (Polarbirkenzeisig); the others may have been immatures! Temminck's stint (Bécasseau de Temminck) (Temminckstrandläufer),

Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), singing Shore Lark (Alouette hausse-col)(Ohrenlerche)…, and 2 Red-throated Pipits (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper)

at the car park at km 10 of Batsfjord road. (Cool, windy , showers)

 
7th July:
Another Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper) at km 20, near Batsfjord and a splendid adult Glaucous Gull (Goéland bourgmestre) (Eismöwe)

bathing with other gulls, Kittiwakes (Mouette tridactyle) (Dreizehenmöwe) and Red-breasted Mergansers (Harle huppé) (Mittelsäger) in the river mouth, just by the roadside. My first in this area. Shopping and e-mailing in Batsfjord Library. Great Place, nice lady librarian!
Back to my study area with Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer), 2 very shy cock Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn), Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) and Red-throated pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper).

But to my dismay the Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) eggs have disappeared! No shells, no chicks, but 4 adult birds, probably 2 males and 2 females, are resting not far away. After some time they start feeding, always staying within less than 100 yards of the robbed nest. 2 hours later, the rain makes me go home to my cabin. (Cool, wet, windy)

8th July :
A pair of Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) in front of my cabin, more at km 12.5.
Another shy cock Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn) in my study area but only one female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), about 150 yards from the nest. It flies off after 10 minutes; I see the same or another one half a mile further uphill, but no trace of breeding birds. An Arctic (Blue) Hare (Lepus timidus) waits until I am ready with my camera.

More Temminck's stints (Bécasseau de Temminck) (Temminckstrandläufer), and 2 long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) with 1 fem. Red-necked Phalarope (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) at Gednje T-junction.

I take the road to Berlevag to check on two Gyrfalcon (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) sites and am lucky at site no. 2. The birds must have used a nest that had been occupied by Raven (Grand Corbeau) (Kolkrabe) and Peregrines (Faucon pèlerin) (Wanderfalke) years ago. There is a family of 6, the young all flying well and being very mobile. Nevertheless I manage to get some nice pictures and spend the rest of the day by the water, listening to my friends (Bach, Liszt, Rachmaninov, Chopin, Mozart, Schumann, Schubert…), having a good read, watching from time to time the falcons, Reindeer (Rennes), seabirds (Shag (Cormoran huppé) (Krähenscharbe), Cormorant (Grand Cormoran) (Kormoran), Black Guillemots (Guillemot à miroir) (Gryllteiste), Red-throated Divers (Plongeon catmarin) (Sterntaucher)) and a pair of Ring Ouzel (Merle à plastron) (Ringdrossel). THAT is what I call a real holiday!

(Sunny but windy, overcast in late evening…)

9th July :
More literature, few birds: 2 Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) chasing a Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) (Birkenzeisig) and nearly getting him was the only highlight. 3 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) in the same place (km 4). All the Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in the other study area have now hatched (within 24 hours). (Cloudy, windy, cool, …and wet)

10th July:
Same weather, few birds, more books. 3 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe), Temminck's Stint (Bécasseau de Temminck) (Temminckstrandläufer), Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer) in my study area, the usual… but NO Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer). (Weather: forget it!)

11th July:
Worst day of my stay: stormy, cold and pouring rain. Spend the day in my cabin with my books and my Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) and a Stoat (Hermine, Hermelin) in front; my friends Jerome and Nassera from Paris arrive.

12th July:
The rain has stopped for a little while and we go and look for Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) but only see a White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) looking for fish in the river valley before we are caught by the next shower. Shopping, e-mails, then lunch and showering in Batsfjord Fishermen's hostel. Then we head for Syltefjord. A dozen Long-tailed Ducks (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) on the lakes long the road, a Ring Ouzel (Merle à plastron) (Ringdrossel) and 1 Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) (Moorschneehuhn) by the little canyon. Then, rain again….

13th July:
The White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) appears again in my study area with 3 non-breeding Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) flying and sitting around on their bellies, doing nothing. We get as close as 15 yards. Nice pictures.

On I go towards Berlevag. The Gyrfalcon (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) family have moved a bit away from the nest site but are still in the area with the same Ring Ouzels (Merle à plastron) (Ringdrossel)

and 1 Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard).
Later on I spot a small Common Tern (Sterne pierregarin) (Flussseeschwalbe) colony in Kongsfjord harbour. Not a very "common" bird here!

(Sunny spells, cool, windy, showers later.)

14th July:
My friends having left for Hamningberg on the previous day, I decide to join them there. Long drive to Vardö. 2 Long-tailed duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) and 1 Red-throated Diver (Plongeon catmarin) (Sterntaucher) on Kongsfjord pass,

no Gyrfalcons (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) in the Tana valley (roadworks under their nest site), huge areas infested by caterpillars, just like in 2003 and 2004. Seem to have become an annual plague, the winters being too warm to kill off the eggs.
Near Vestre Jakobselv, a Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) allows stunning views, hovering by the main road for 20 minutes.
First Turnstones (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer),

Velvet Scoter (Macreuse brune) (Samtente) with White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) between Salttjern and Ekkeroy, but no Steller's Eider (Eider de Steller) (Scheckente) (someone claimed to have seen ONE in Batsfjord harbour, that was all)…5 more White-tailed Eagles (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) between Skallelv and Kiberg with the old eyrie still occupied by 1 big young bird. No Snowy Owls (Harfang des neiges) (Schnee-Eule) on Domen; there had been one in June! Night in comfortable Vardö hotel, nkr. 450. (Sunny first, showers in the evening, windy)

15th July:
2 Brünnich's Guillemots (Guillemot de Brünnich) (Dickschnabellumme) in the harbour, seen from breakfast table, and 3+ Common Tern (Sterne pierregarin) (Flussseeschwalbe). 1 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente)

in Svartnes harbour but no rare gulls. More Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) in Rijsfjorden with Razorbills (Pingouin torda) (Tordalk). Arrive in Hamningberg and find my friends who saw a big shoal of Beluga Whales and an Otter (Lutra l.) the day before. Just my luck! But we manage to find ANOTHER otter just outside the little harbour, around the "corner". AND another Beluga whale! Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer)

and Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper) near the N car park. I dip on a Gyrfalcon (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) and a Great Skua (Grand Labbe) (Skua), there are more Brünnich's Guillemot (Guillemot de Brünnich) (Dickschnabellumme) with Black Guillemot (Guillemot à miroir) (Gryllteiste), Gannets (Fou de Bassan) (Basstölpel), Puffins (Macareux moine) (Papageitaucher) etc.
The otter wait in the evening only yields a White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) and 2 Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) with lots of moulting Goosanders (Harle bièvre) (Gänsesäger) on the shore. (Dry, cool and windy)

16th July
Weather still very unsettled. Long drive back to Ekkeroy with frequent stopovers.
Near Hamningberg 1 White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler), 6 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) , the first King Eider (Eider à tête grise) (Prachteiderente) and 2 imm. Great Northern Divers (Plongeon imbrin) (Eistaucher).

2 more Eagles at km 18 with 3 more King Eiders (Eider à tête grise) (Prachteiderente) (1 imm. male) and a family of 1 ad. + 2 imm. White-billed Divers (Plongeon à bec blanc) (Gelbschnabel- taucher), catching fish not very far away!
Sometimes these large divers seem to breed every other year, remaining with the chicks longer than 13 months, just like Great Northern Divers (Plongeon imbrin) (Eistaucher). - 35 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) at km 14 with another male King Eider (Eider à tête grise) (Prachteiderente). But not the Steller's Eider (Eider de Steller) (Scheckente) someone had seen 2 days before. Another Eagle at km 11 with 70 Common Scoter (Macreuse noire) (Trauerente). Good views of Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) by km 5 with Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) and calling Snipe (Bécassine des marais) (Bekassine), not very common here.

We discover a family of Red Fox (Vulpes v.) near the Eagles' eyrie after Kiberg with a surprising Kestrel (Faucon crécerelle) (Turmfalke) mobbing the adult Eagle. Never seen one that far up north! 2 Whimbrel (Courlis corlieu) (Regenbrachvogel) near Skallelv,

1 roadside Short-eared Owl (Hibou des marais) (Sumpfohreule) at km 24. In Ekkeroy NE bay, 6 Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) with 1 splendid adult Great Northern Diver (Plongeon imbrin) (Eistaucher) in full breeding plumage!

Wet night on car park.

17th July
Walk along the big Kittiwake (Mouette tridactyle) (Dreizehenmöwe) colony. No predators except a few Raven (Grand Corbeau) (Kolkrabe). Among the Black Guillemots (Guillemot à miroir) (Gryllteiste) I spot 2 Razorbill (Pingouin torda) (Tordalk) on the water which are uncommon here. We hear Snipe (Bécassine des marais) (Bekassine) calls, another "rare" bird.

3 Harbour Porpoise in the NE bay and 2 ad. + 1 imm. White-tailed eagles (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) between Ekkeroy and Krampenes. Between the village and the Storskog plateau there are Golden Plover (Pluvier doré)

(Goldregenpfeifer), Whimbrel (Courlis corlieu) (Regenbrachvogel), Shore larks (Alouette haussecol) (Ohrenlerche), and Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) with chicks on a lake. 1 Bar-tailed Godwit (Barge rousse) (Pfuhlschnepfe) on the shore in Salttjern, but none on the Golnes plateau where they should breed, but another Short-eared Owl (Hibou des marais) (Sumpfohreule) just below. (Cloudy, cool with showers)

18th July:
Nice surprise during breakfast on Ekkeroy: another Great Skua (Grand Labbe) (Skua) flies by! And 1 Bar-tailed Godwit (Barge rousse) (Pfuhlschnepfe) on the beach. We decide to leave Varangerfjord. Stopover at Nesseby but still no Steller's Eiders (Eider de Steller) (Scheckente)! Only a few Bar-tailed Godwits (Barge rousse) (Pfuhlschnepfe) at high tide and a dozen Shelduck (Tadorne de Belon) (Brandgans), 1 with chicks.
And, a rare sight, 2 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) on the pond by the church, one with 2 chicks!

Further East, I see 3 Waxwings (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz), 4 more in Neiden churchyard where an Arctic Warbler (Pouillot boréal) (Wanderlaubsänger) sings briefly but keeps well out of sight. A Woodcock (Bécasse des bois) (Waldschnepfe) displays at 2 p.m., and there is a family of Kestrel (Faucon crécerelle) (Turmfalke) up the cliff. Rough-legged Buzzards (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) 10 km NW Ferdesmyra and by Neiden bridge where we spot a dozen Salmons trying to get through the tumultuous waterfalls.
We arrive in the Pasvik valley in early evening. From the watchtower on Högan 96 we see 2 Cranes (Grue cendrée) (Kranich) in a large bog. Terrific views over the valley until the ugly industrial complex on the other side. On the way down to Hestefoss dam we see a Merlin (Faucon émerillon) (Merlin (Faucon émerillon)), 2 Greenshank (Chevalier aboyeur) (Grünschenkel), 3 Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) on the lake and a Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) hunting at midnight, but no Brown Bears, only 1 female Elk (Moose) seen from the hill at Gjokasen gravel pit!
(Cloudy with some sun, very cold in the evening, windy)

19th July:
6 Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz) and a group of Siberian Tits (Mésange lapone) (Lapplandmeise) in the Hestefoss area. From the Fuglebu hide in Noatun/Nyrud we see 3 Little Gull (Mouette pygmée) (Zwergmöwe), 1 Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) (Fischadler), 2 more Waxwings (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz) and another, bigger Elk. More little Gulls (Mouette pygmée) (Zwergmöwe) from the shore in Noatun, Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher), with Spotted Flycatcher (Gobemouche gris) (Grauschnäpper) (uncommon) and Yellow Wagtail (Bergeronnette printanière) (Schafstelze) in the trees. Another party of Siberian Tits (Mésange lapone) (Lapplandmeise) on the Lyngmo road. After some pishing ("tsee-tsee-psss, psss, psss"), 2 come as close as 2 feet from our heads and even try to perch on my hat! Another Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) (Fischadler), seen from Gjokasen. I hear 1 Siberian Jay (Mésangeai imitateur) (Unglückshäher), 2 Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) (Moorschneehuhn) and a Spotted Redshank (Chevalier arlequin) (Dunkler Wasserläufer) (all invisible..) from the road to Hestefoss. 1 Blue Hare and a Stoat (Hermelin, Hermine) on the dam, 1 Short-eared Owl (Hibou des marais) (Sumpfohreule)

at night. (Mostly dry but cold and windy…we needed our gloves!)

20th July:
A rare occurrence: we hear a Lesser spotted Woodpecker (Pic épeichette) (Kleinspecht) near Hestefoss ( the northernmost in Europe?). More Siberian Tits (Mésange lapone) (Lapplandmeise) at the W end of the dam, 1 Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) (Blaukehlchen) by the road.

After a fruitless night near Grensevatn (3 country corner), we decide to leave Pasvik and to meet again in Dividalen and Bleik/Andenes on Vesteralen islands.
Long drive. Jerome stops at Neiden churchyard and sees the Arctic Warbler (Pouillot boréal) (Wanderlaubsänger) at precisely 1.30 p.m., exactly the same time when I and another birder saw it on 2 consecutive days in 2004!
Uneventful journey across Finland. 30 miles before Kaamanen I see 1 Siberian Jay (Mésangeai imitateur) (Unglückshäher) and hear a juv. Merlin (Faucon émerillon) (Merlin) beg in the distance. Yellow Wagtail (Bergeronnette printanière) (Schafstelze) near Enontekiö, Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) (Blaukehlchen) and Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz) with young at Kaaresuvanto T-junction. In the valley before Kilpisjärvi, some Arctic Terns (Sterne arctique) (Küstenseeschwalbe) are sitting on telephone wires! Another Merlin (Faucon émerillon) (Merlin (Faucon émerillon)) near Maarkina. Night on the beach near Skibotn. I have crossed the whole of Fennoscandia between the Russian border and the North Atlantic in 1 day! (Cloudy, cool with showers, snow above 4000 ft.)

21st July:
We meet in Övre Dividalen National Park (no road signs; you need a map to find it!..) and go on a 10-mile afternoon/evening walk to find shy, furry predators - Brown Bear, Wolverine (Glouton, Vielfrass), Arctic Fox -…. Well, we only found a lot of Reindeer (Renne, Rentier), so no predators around. The only birds of interest were a few Siberian Tits (Mésange lapone) (Lapplandmeise), 1 Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) (Moorschneehuhn) and 1 Merlin (Faucon émerillon) (Merlin (Faucon émerillon)). But the countryside is beautiful.

22nd July:
Off we go towards Vesteralen islands. Weather very rainy, no birds on the road. Just 2 families of Whooper Swans (Cygne chanteur) (Singschwan) before Andenes. But in Bleik…, what a sight! A cloud of Puffins (Macareux moine) (Papageitaucher) and other seabirds swirling round Bleiköya Rock with up to 7 White-tailed Eagles (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) giving them chase. Unforgettable, even in wind and drizzle. Otter tracks on the beach…!

23rd July:
Wet night in car, breakfast a bit complicated. But the rain stops, we get good views of an Otter tearing apart a big fish.

Calls of Spotted Redshank (Chevalier arlequin) (Dunkler Wasserläufer). Migration? In the afternoon, I go on board a trawler in Andenes, and we are lucky to find a big male Sperm Whale (Cachalot, Pottwal) after a 2-hour search. Only one (sometimes there may be half a dozen…) but we have time to wait for it to diver and come up again 2 more times. More info on http://www.whalesafari.no .

One unusual bird for July: an unexpected Sooty Shearwater (Puffin fuligineux) (Dunkler Sturmtaucher). 7 Gannets (Fou de Bassan) (Basstölpel), 2 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe), 1 possible Pomarine skua (Labbe pomarin) (Spatelraubmöwe) and lots of Northern Fulmars (Fulmar boréal) (Eissturmvogel). Expensive trip (760 nkr) but it is worth the while. And you get a free trip if no whales are spotted (very rare)! (Cloudy, cool but - thank GOD - less windy.)

24th July:
I leave my friends who want to make Otter portraits and take the Ferry to Lofoten Islands. Alas, all the mountains are shrouded in fog from 200 yds. upwards, so no stunning landscape photos! I spot 6 Whooper Swans (Cygne chanteur) (Singschwan) at Skogvoll, a Grey heron (Héron cendré) (Graureiher) W Sortland, a Chiffchaff (Pouillot véloce) (Zilpzalp) near Olderfjord, and 2 White-tailed Eagles (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) near Hammerstad and 5 km after the first bridge.
Am lucky to get the first evening ferry to Bodö and flush 1 Woodcock (Bécasse des bois) (Waldschnepfe) on the road from Nordvik to Fauske. (A little sunshine a.m., dry, but overcast later.)

25th July:
Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park has a great museum but the only bird I see on windy Semska-Stödi pass (85 km before Mo I Rana) is a Golden Plover (Pluvier doré) (Goldregenpfeifer). But here you can get higher than anywhere else in this part of Norway above the tree line by car. The Arctic Foxes cannot be far away. But there are only a few on several 100 sqm.

I cross the Arctic Circle and soon see a few Swifts (Martinet noir) (Mauersegler). !- In Mo I Rana I fork left towards Sweden and get again near the tree line. 2 Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) 3 km before Umbukta lake. In Hemavan, there is a ski lift in service which may get you higher up, too. (Sunny and less cool but windy)

26th July:
Arrival in Sanfjellet at sunrise. The Brown Bear paradise! I quickly find the place where Jerome saw a female with cubs in 2004. But I only hear singing Siskin (Tarin des aulnes) (Erlenzeisig) (very difficult song pattern!) and Common Crossbills (Bec-croisé des sapins) (Fichtenkreuzschnabel). Birdlife here is very Central European with Bullfinch (Bouvreuil pivoine) (Gimpel), Redstart (Rougequeue à front blanc) (Gartenrotschwanz), Robin (Rougegorge familier) (Rotkehlchen), Meadow Pipit (Pipit farlouse) (Wiesenpieper), Whinchat (Tarier des prés) (Braunkehlchen), Black Woodpecker (Pic noir) (Schwarzspecht), Crested Tits (Mésange huppée) (Haubenmeise) etc. The only "Arctic" birds are a few Siberian Jay (Mésangeai imitateur) (Unglückshäher) on the roads to Nyvallen and Nysätern with up to 6 Waxwings (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz) which catch insects with Swifts (Apus a.) that breed in woodpecker holes.

Another Adder (Vipera berus) on the road to Hede. But the showers start again in the afternoon, and for bears there is too much traffic on the Nyvallen track until 10 pm. (Cool, unsettled)

27th July:
Back on my Elk hunter watchtower at sunrise. But no bears, no elk. A few Willow Tits (Mésange boréale) (Weidenmeise), a Siskin (Tarin des aulnes) (Erlenzeisig), a Lesser Whitethroat (Fauvette babillarde) (Klappergrasmücke), a Willow Warbler (Pouillot fitis) (Fitis) and a Wren (Troglodyte mignon) (Zaunkönig) are chasing each other. When I start pishing (tsee-tsee-pss-pss-pss), ALL this little folk come towards me and look at me from less than 4 feet distance, the tits even perching a few inches away on the barrier!!! Incredible!
Then the showers resume and I cannot go on top Sanfjellet to look for Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) and Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn).
In the evening, I try to drive around the mountain (clockwise) but get lost after the park entrance on the eastern side. After driving around in the dark for 2 hours I get back to Sörviken village, thinking I was on the other side of the park!!! Never again! DON'T DO IT! Too many unmapped forest roads, no road signs, anyone can get lost. Only bonus: a female Capercaillie (Grand Tétras) (Auerhuhn) on a track at dusk. (Cool, unsettled, heavy showers)

28th July:
No Bears at sunrise so I get back to Hede Urskog (S Hede), a pristine bit of old primitive Pine and Fir forest. The only birds are a Black Woodpecker (Pic noir) (Schwarzspecht) and 2 tame Siberian Jay (Mésangeai imitateur) (Unglückshäher) at the car park which get the mealworms I had taken for my Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) on the Fjell. But this forest is a must! (Showers, sunny intervals.)

29th July:
Long journey south. By a large lake in the woods near an empty car park after Malung (Brickelbergtjärn), about 3 miles before Väbergstugan, I surprise a pair of Cranes (Grue cendrée) (Kranich). First Marsh Harrier (Busard des roseaux) (Rohrweihe) at Alvängen, last Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) (Birkenzeisig) S Göteborg. (Drizzle a.m., then sunny and warmer, just my luck..!)

30th July:
I cross over to Denmark and see the first Honey Buzzard (Bondrée apivore) (Wespenbussard) near Gedser!

2nd August
On my way home from Berlin I see a big dark bird of prey in the Nuthetal (SW Berlin). I could not stop on the Magdeburg motorway but I am quite sure it must have been a Lesser Spotted Eagle (Aigle pomarin) (Schreiadler) (which breed around Berlin), too big for Harriers, Kites or Buzzards (Buse variable) (Mäusebussard) with round, shortish tail. I am told that those birds may well straggle around this place but I will never know for sure.
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What next? Well, I will have to come back to Lapland one day. Few new species but lots of fantastic unknown places to see…and far away from crushing central European heat waves!

No list this time, sorry! I am not a list birder. Have a look at my other trip reports on
http://louiscrex.skyblog.com/  !

They do have lists!

More pictures are in the 2006 Lapland album on
http://lutzluecker.spaces.live.com/